Saddleback Plumbing Heating & Air Blog: Posts Tagged ‘Anaheim’

Anaheim Air Conditioning Q/A: What is a Matched HVAC System?

Monday, June 25th, 2012

It has been about 200 years since the arrival of interchangeable parts during the Industrial Revolution. Today, we laud being able to take a malfunctioning part from a car, computer or vacuum cleaner, replace it with a newly minted part from any number of manufacturers, then keep right on plugging along.

Although this is a blessing in most arenas, when it comes to your Anaheim HVAC system, it is not necessarily a good practice. Heating and cooling systems work best when they are matched – but what does that mean? And why does it matter?

Why Matched Parts Matter in HVAC Systems

When referring to HVAC systems, a matched system is one in which various components are designed to work together. For example, an air conditioner and furnace made by the same manufacturer can be matched, as can a furnace and a heat pump.

Typically, the matching is done in such a way that the “outdoor” components, such as air conditioners and heat pumps are designed to work best with their “indoor” partners, like air handlers and furnaces. There are also matched systems in which every component is matched to every other.

Efficiency Boosts

While this may seem to make maintenance and repairs a pain, the practice provides a big boost to the efficiency of the system. Because the components were designed and manufactured by the same team to work in harmony, the system performs optimally. Although you can often replace one component of a matched system with one from another manufacturer and have it work fine, the system can lose efficiency, often to a significant and noticeable extent.

For these reasons, it is best to make use of matched HVAC system in your Anaheim home whenever possible. This means choosing a new matched system to install, replacing broken parts with ones that match the rest of the system and even replacing older systems with newer ones to properly match, when necessary.

It may seem like a hassle at first, but it saves money in the long run by adding increased efficiency over unmatched systems. For more information about HVAC installation and replacement, give Saddleback Plumbing a call!

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Taxes and Energy Savings for Anaheim Homes

Monday, May 28th, 2012

Having energy efficient heating and air conditioning appliances in Anaheim isn’t just good for the environment; it is good for your budget too! Not only do you save money by lowering your energy bills each month but you are also able to get some tax credits. While some of these credits have changed since 2010, there are still plenty of ways that you can save money by improving the energy efficiency of your home.  Taxes are confusing, but this is one tax credit that is easy to understand without your accountant. We found this great guide on Bizactions.com that explains exactly what air conditioning installations can earn you tax credits.

The federal government offers two different tax credits for energy-saving home improvements. The rules for one credit changed for the worse since last year. The other credit remains as generous as ever. Here’s what you need to know if you want to claim these credits this year.

1. Modest Credit for Garden Variety Energy-Saving Improvements

The first credit equals 10 percent of certain qualified home improvement expenditures plus 100 percent of certain other expenditures–subject to a rather stingy overall credit cap of $500. And you must reduce that already-skimpy cap by credits claimed in earlier years.

While the $500 cap is uninspiring, the good news is the credit covers a broad range of energy-saving expenditures for your principal U.S. residence, and there are no income limits. However improvements made to vacation homes and foreign residences are not eligible.

You may remember that the 2010 version of this credit was much more generous. It equaled 30 percent of qualified expenditures — subject to a $1,500 cap. The current version with the $500 cap is scheduled to expire at year end. Because it is doubtful that the credit will be extended, you may need to take action this year to benefit.

Here are more details on the $500 credit.

Claiming the Credit for Improvement Costs

For the following home improvements, the maximum credit equals 10 percent of qualified 2011 expenditures up to the $500 limit (reduced by any credit claimed in earlier years).

Exterior windows including skylights and storm windows, subject to a $200 credit cap.

Exterior doors including storm doors.

Insulation.

Metal and asphalt roofs with heat-reduction components.

For these items, you cannot count costs for site preparation, assembly, or installation.

Claiming the Credit for Equipment Costs

For the following items, the maximum credit equals 100 percent of qualified 2011 expenditures up to the $500 limit (reduced by any credit claimed in earlier years).

High-efficiency central air conditioners; electric heat pumps, electric heat pump water heaters; water heaters that run on natural gas, propane or oil; and biomass fuel stoves used for heating or hot water. The cap for these items is $300.

Furnaces and hot water boilers that run on natural gas, propane, or oil–subject to a cap of $150.

Advanced main air circulating fans used in natural gas, propane, and oil furnaces–subject to a cap of $50.

For these items, costs for site preparation, assembly, and installation are eligible for the credit.

Manufacturer’s Certification Is Required

You must obtain a manufacturer’s certification that the product in question qualifies for the $500 credit. The certification may be on the product packaging, or you may be able to print it out from the manufacturer’s website. In any case, keep the certification with your tax records. You won’t need to attach the certification to your Form 1040, but Form 5695 (Residential Energy Credits) will be included with your return.

 2. Bigger Credit for More Expensive Energy-Saving Equipment

The second credit equals 30 percent of qualified expenditures to buy and install more-exotic (and expensive) energy-saving equipment for your home.

Because the expenditures for these items can be big, the credit amounts can be big too. And there are no income limits. Even billionaires can take advantage.

This second credit is available through 2016, so there is no big hurry. If your 2011 credit is so large that you cannot use it all up on this year’s return, you can carry the excess forward to 2012 and beyond.

Qualified Expenditures

The credit equals 30 percent of qualified expenditures including costs for site preparation, assembly, installation, piping, and wiring for the following gear.

Solar water heating equipment for your U.S. residence (including a vacation home).

Solar electricity generating equipment for your U.S. residence (including a vacation home).

Wind energy equipment for your U.S. residence (including a vacation home).

Geothermal heat pump equipment for your U.S. residence (including a vacation home).

Fuel cell electricity generating equipment for your U.S. principal residence. Vacation homes don’t count here. For this part of the credit, the maximum annual credit amount is limited to $500 for each .5 kilowatt hour of fuel cell capacity that you add during that year.

Special Rules

You cannot claim the credit for equipment used to heat a swimming pool or hot tub, and special rules apply to expenditures for residential co-op and condominium buildings.

You Must Get a Manufacturer’s Certification

Again, you are required to obtain a manufacturer’s certification stating that the equipment in question qualifies for the credit. You don’t need to attach it to your Form 1040, but keep it with your tax records. A completed Form 5695 will be included with your return.

Finally, keep proof of exactly much you spend — including any extra amounts for site preparation, assembly, installation, piping, or wiring.

Check for Additional Cash Inducements

You might also be eligible for state and local income tax benefits, subsidized state and local financing deals, and utility company rebates. These additional inducements can amount to hundreds of dollars or more.

For more information about how HVAC upgrades can save you money in the long run please call Saddleback Plumbing.

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What to do Before Turning on AC for First Time in Orange County

Wednesday, February 1st, 2012

The weather is starting to heat up in Orange County and you are eager to flip the switch on your air conditioning system for the first time. It’s been sitting there, waiting to be used, but now you wonder if there are any tasks that should be completed before its first use. Depending on the type of system you had installed there are a few things you should keep in mind before you cool down your house. They include:

  • Outdoor Cleaning – First, make sure the outdoor unit (if you have a central AC system) is cleaned up nicely. Clear away any leaves, remove the cover and check the system for any growth or debris that might have gotten under the cover. Check the air supply registers to make sure they are open and either replace or clean your filters depending on whether they are permanent or disposable.
  • Check Your Thermostat – The thermostat should be checked before you start using the system. To do this, set the system to Auto-cool and then lower the thermostat setting to one degree lower than the actual temperature in the room. If the system turns on, the thermostat is working properly. Let it run for a few hours to make sure this stays consistent.
  • Clear Away Winter and Spring Dust – Now that your system is running, make sure you check the filters for any buildup of dust that was in the ductwork. Over the off season, your ducts might develop a layer of dust and debris, especially if your heating system doesn’t make use of them. The filters might clog quickly as a result.
  • Check for Water Leaks – Your condensate overflow drain should work properly as well – check for any potential leaks during the first 48 hours of operation. Even a small leak should be checked immediately to avoid potential problems as summer cooling season kicks in.

If you notice any problems other than those listed above, you should call a service professional immediately. Ideally you will have your system inspected in early-mid spring to ensure it is ready for the summer, but even so problems can develop between inspection and first running. Electrical issues especially should be checked immediately.

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Plumbing FAQ 4: Why Won’t My Heat Pump Start?

Monday, January 30th, 2012

Plumbing experts in Irvine advise home owners that if you are having trouble with your heat pump, you may be surprised to learn that it is probably not the heat pump that is to blame, especially if the trouble is that it simply won’t start up. That seems counterintuitive, but it’s true: the heat pump can be in perfect working order but still not turn on.

The good news, then, is that your heat pump is fine and you won’t have to pay an arm and a leg to fix or replace it. Still though, these types of problems can very frustrating to diagnose and correct. Here are four common culprits when a heat pump won’t start:

  1. No power to the heat pump. Check your breaker box to see if the circuit breaker was tripped. If so, reset it and see if that fixes the problem. Another possibility is that your heat pump is wired to a wall switch, or that there is a switch on the unit itself. Make sure the switch is turned on.
  2. Make sure the thermostat is set to the proper mode, such as “heat” mode if you desire more heat. It seems overly simple, but sometimes the trouble is as simple as that.
  3. A recently replaced thermostat. If you recently upgraded or replaced the thermostat in your home, it’s possible that something went wrong that is preventing your heat pump from starting. It may be the wrong kind of thermostat – heat pumps require a specific type – or it may have been improperly wired.
  4. Finally, the heat pump may have its own circuit breaker on the air handler cabinet. This is often the case with heat pumps that have supplemental electric elements. If that breaker is tripped, that could cause the problems you are experiencing.

If you exhaust these problems and the problem persists or recurs – for example, if the circuit breaker trips again – call a contractor to work on your heat pump. There may be something larger at work that is causing problems in the electrical system that controls your heat pump, and that requires some expertise to properly address.

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Furnace Safety: Some Advice from Saddleback Plumbing

Wednesday, November 16th, 2011

There are many advantages to a properly operating furnace; the most important are the safety and comfort of your Northwood home’s occupants. There are several things you can do to ensure the safe operation of your furnace.

Here is a checklist of ideas:

  • Clean or change furnace filters on a regular basis. Replace disposable filters and clean permanent filters using water or cleaning solutions. Your owner’s manual or a qualified heating contractor can suggest a regular maintenance schedule.
  • Check the exhaust vent from the furnace. Clear obstructions such as leaves, clothing, or animal nests from the vent pipe or chimney. Keep roof exhaust vents clear of snow. If there is a faulty exhaust system (like a blocked flue), of if there are cracks and leaks in the pipes or improper adjustment of the burner, or if there is lower air pressure indoors than outside, the furnace can create serious indoor air pollution.
  • A clear air intake is important too, since furnaces need fresh air to “breathe” and complete the fuel burning cycle. Again, check for debris, snow, or animal nests in intake pipes.
  • If you have an older gas furnace, you may want to install a supplementary induced-draft fan that reduces the possibility of backdrafting. Some furnaces have automatic shutoff devices that turn off the furnace if it begins to backdraft.
  • Check internal components such as the blower motor and vacuum any dirt. Check belts and pulleys for excessive wear. You should consult your owner’s manual for any suggested maintenance tips on internal working components.
  • You may also want to check the pilot light to see if it is working and if it producing an even, blue flame. If the flame is uneven, it may be a sign of incomplete gas combustion, which can result in the creation of dangerous carbon monoxide gas.
  • Ensure that your thermostat is operating correctly by raising or lowering the temperature settings to make sure the furnace cycles on and off.
  • Install and maintain battery or hard-wired smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

Externally vented natural gas furnaces, when properly designed and installed, will operate safely for years. But if you detect a problem, use the most common solution – contact a qualified heating professional to check out your furnace.

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Tips From Saddleback Plumbing About Upgrading Your Central Air Conditioner

Monday, August 8th, 2011

When the time comes to upgrade your central air conditioner, whether you live in Buena Park or anywhere else, you will have a lot of things to take into account. If you were generally satisfied with the performance of your old system, it can be very tempting to stick with a similar model. But if you do not examine all of the options out there right now, you may very well be missing out on a great deal.

If you already have a central air conditioner in place, chances are that you also have ductwork throughout your house. In that case, you will probably be better off with a packaged air conditioner as opposed to a split system. If it is a split system you are replacing, however, you should probably keep your search limited to other split systems. Installing a packaged air conditioner when you do not already have ducts in place can dramatically increase the overall cost of the project.

You will also want to make sure that the system you choose is compatible with the heating system and air handler that you already have in place. Most central air conditioning systems can be integrated easily with all types of heating systems, but you should still check to make sure this will not be a problem, particularly if you have an older heating system.

In terms of picking out the right new system for your home, energy efficiency is probably the main factor to consider. While just about every air conditioner on the market right now will be much more efficient than the unit you are replacing, you want to make sure you get a model that will provide you with the optimal savings in the long run.

This does not necessarily mean that you should go out and buy the most energy efficient air conditioner out there. In fact, because the more energy efficient units are also typically more expensive, you may not actually save money by going that route. But you will do well to choose a unit that will save you enough monthly to offset the installation costs and for most people, that means that you will want an air conditioner that is either a SEER 14 or SEER 16.

Of course, the actual amount of money you will save as you move up through the SEER rankings depends on how much you use your air conditioner to begin with. If you live somewhere with very hot weather and you use your unit for a large chunk of the year, it may very well be worth it for you to opt for a very high efficiency model.

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What Are Limit Switches and How Do They Work?

Wednesday, June 29th, 2011

When you set the thermostat on your air conditioning system, you pretty take for granted that the system will maintain that temperature throughout your house. But did you ever stop to think about how it’s actually accomplished? The truth is that there are many moving parts that all play a role in keeping your home cool and comfortable, and one of these is the limit switch.

What Is a Limit Switch?

Although you’re probably not aware of it, you’ve encountered plenty of limit switches over the years. A limit switch is anything that stops an electric appliance under certain circumstances. The little switch that turns the light on in the refrigerator when you open the door and then off again when you close it is the perfect example of a limit switch. Another common one is the switch that stops your washer or dryer from running when you open the door. Limit switches are used for a variety of appliances and gadgets to not only save electricity but to keep you and your device safe.

Limit Switches and Air Conditioning

The limit switch on your air conditioning system is the link between the blower on your air handler and the thermostat. When the thermostat senses that the desired indoor temperature has been reached, it stops the air conditioner from producing any more cold air. At that point, it’s important for the blower to stop functioning as well.

If it doesn’t, the blower will continue to move and warm air rather than cold will begin circulating throughout your home. However, if the blower shuts off too soon, the cold air that’s still being generated by the air conditioner won’t be able to circulate. So it’s essential that the blower be switched off at the same time the cold air stops arriving. That’s exactly what the limit switch does.

While it’s only one very small part of a large machine, the limit switch in your air conditioner plays a vital role in keeping your home comfortable and in allowing your air conditioning system to function as efficiently as possible.

If you notice that your air conditioner is shutting off too soon or not soon enough, it may be because of a broken limit switch. Sometimes, the system simply needs to be reset, something you can do with the help of your owner’s manual. However, if your limit switch is broken, you should contact a professional to take a look and determine if it needs to be replaced.

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How to Reduce the Load on Your Central Air Conditioner

Monday, March 28th, 2011

Your central air conditioner can handle a lot. It can keep your house cool and comfortable all summer long with only a minimum of maintenance. And if you have a newer, more energy efficient model, you probably are not even paying very much for this luxury. But no matter how good your air conditioning system is, it is always best if you can reduce its cooling load as much as possible.

Cutting down on the amount of work your central air conditioner has to do will save you money both in the short term and in the long term. You will be able to keep your house cool all summer while paying even less than you already do and you will help to extend the life of your system as well.

In general, reducing the cooling load that your air conditioner is responsible for involves keeping your house cooler by some other means. One great option when this is your goal is to have some ceiling fans installed. These help to circulate cool air and also create a breeze that can make it feel cooler even if the actual indoor temperature is the same.

With adequate ceiling fans in place, you will usually be able to turn up the thermostat on your central air conditioner and still be completely comfortable indoors. Turning up the temperature on the thermostat means that your air conditioning system will not have to work so hard because it will not have to get the indoor temperature down so low.

You can also reduce the indoor temperature in your house by blocking the sunlight that comes in and warms up the indoor air. Drawing the blinds, especially in those rooms that receive warmer afternoon sunlight will keep that sun from raising your indoor temperature. This, in turn, means that your air conditioning system will not have to work so hard to get the temperature back down.

You can also help to keep cool air inside and warmer air out by covering any doors and windows you are not likely to use with plastic. Also, check to make sure there are no cracks or drafts anywhere that may be letting in air from the outside or allowing cooler indoor air to escape. All of these things can make it possible for your air conditioner to keep your home cool without working so hard, and that will also mean that you will be paying less each month on your energy bills.

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What is a Downflow vs. an Upflow Furnace?

Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011

When you go looking to buy a furnace, you may well be surprised by how many different elements go into making a good purchasing decision. There are simply so many different kinds of furnaces available now and they each are more appropriate for certain situations. That means that finding the one that’s right for you is less about finding the one best unit than it is about finding the one that is the best match for your particular circumstances.

This applies to the type of fuel the furnace uses, its energy efficiency, and whether it’s an upflow furnace or a downflow furnace. Energy efficiency and fuel types are probably things that you’re more or less familiar with. But what are we talking about when we classify a furnace as an upflow or downflow model?

Well, it’s pretty much what it sounds like. These terms refer to the direction the air flows as it is taken in and heated by the furnace. So in an upflow furnace, the cool air is taken in at the bottom, warmed, and then expelled at the top. A downflow furnace, on the other hand, takes in cool air at the top and expels heated air at the bottom.

While this is all very exciting, it may still not be obvious what impact this will have on your decision about what type of furnace to buy. The main thing you’ll have to think about when you’re deciding between an upflow and a downflow furnace is where the furnace will be placed in your house.

An upflow furnace is generally installed in the basement so that the heated air is directed towards the parts of the house you want cooled and so that the furnace can be appropriately vented outside of the house. On the other hand, a downflow furnace would be installed in your attic for the same reasons.

So where you want to have the furnace installed is probably the biggest thing to take into account as you’re comparing these two types of equipment. Of course, whether you pick an upflow or a downflow furnace, you’ll still have to select the appropriate AFUE, size and fuel source to best meet your needs. But making the choice between upflow and downflow can at least make it easier to narrow down your options.

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Cleaning the Heating Coil: It Can Save You Repairs Later

Wednesday, March 16th, 2011

Just like any piece of equipment, your furnace needs some regular attention and maintenance to keep it running right. And one of the most important parts of the furnace to pay attention to during these service visits is the heating coil.

Without the heating coil, your furnace simply won’t be able to put out heat to keep your house warm. That’s because the combustion in the furnace is used to heat the coil. Air is then blown across the heating coil so that it can be warmed before being circulated throughout the house.

If your heating coil isn’t kept clean, it’s easy to see how you could wind up with all types of problems down the line. And since air is constantly being blown across the coil when the furnace is at work, it’s particularly susceptible to accumulating buildups of debris and sediment.

When this happens, there are several consequences. First of all, your furnace will have a harder time heating your whole house and heating it evenly. As a result, all of the parts of the furnace will have to work overtime to keep your home warm and this can cause them to wear out and break faster. Of course, when that happens, you’ll need professional repairs to get you back on track and you may have to go without heat for some time in the coldest part of the year.

Also, a dirty heating coil won’t be as efficient at transferring heat to the air blowing past, meaning that you’ll be getting less heating power out of the fuel your furnace is consuming to heat your home. Essentially, this will mean your furnace is not functioning at peak energy efficiency and that will certainly be reflected on your monthly heating bills.

But all of this can be avoided by keeping your heating coil clean and in good repair. You will likely need to have a professional take care of this for you and it is a standard part of an annual maintenance visit. While you may have to pay a bit each year for that regular maintenance, you’ll be much better off and save a good deal of money in the long run by having it done and your coil cleaned.

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