Saddleback Plumbing Heating & Air Blog: Posts Tagged ‘Fullerton’

How to Increase Your Water Pressure in Huntington Beach

Thursday, March 15th, 2012

As a Huntington Beach resident it’s no fun when you are in the middle of taking a shower and your bathroom plumbing slows to a trickle. The most logical thing to blame the loss of water pressure is a toilet being flushed or a washing machine being filled. It is not uncommon for losses in water pressure to be associated with simultaneous water usage in other parts of the home.

But if low water pressure seems to be a constant problem when only one source is being used and there are no other appliances using water at the same time, you may have a bigger problem on your hands.

The first thing to do is to check the source of the water supply to your outdoor faucets. Turn the hose bibs to the fully open position and run the water. Is the pressure okay? If so, you probably have a problem indoors. While you are outside, check for any leaks in the hose bibs or faucets. A leak can cause a loss of water pressure in other plumbing circuits.

Now check the hose bibs on the lines leading to interior fittings, like faucets or showerheads, etc. Is the hose bib turned to the fully open position? Someone may have been playing with the bib and turned it down or off. If that checks out okay, take a look at all of the fittings in your plumbing fixtures. Are there any leaks? Is there standing water anywhere, indicating a leak?

If so, tighten up the affected fittings. If you need to remove any fittings to inspect or replace (i.e. a worn out washer or bushing), make sure you turn off the water line to the fitting first.

If there are filter screens in your faucets check them for an accumulation of debris and clean if necessary. A clogged screen can greatly reduce water pressure.

Many new homes now come with a pressure regulator, which governs the water pressure going into the home. The regulator is located above ground, usually where the pipes enter the home. The pressures are usually preset by the regulator manufacturer but may not always be compatible to the local environment. If you think that may be the problem, contact Saddleback Plumbing for a professional opinion.

A disruption in the piping that feeds water into the home can also affect water pressure, such as tree roots in the pipes or a break in the line. These problems can only be diagnosed and corrected by qualified plumbing professionals. Please do not attempt to find and fix these problems as the result may be costly or even dangerous to your health.

Low water pressure can be a drag but it may also only require a quick fix.

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DIY Plumbing Tip 1: How to Install a Toilet

Monday, February 13th, 2012

A toilet is a relatively basic piece of bathroom plumbing equipment for a Corona Del Mar resident to install, but that does not mean that installing it is easy. This is certainly a plumbing maintenance that many people can do on their own, but you should be prepared to devoting the majority of your day to the project. While the installation itself is not terribly complicated, it is quite important that you get it right, so make sure you have all of the necessary materials, equipment and tools before you begin.

The first thing to remember is that you need to install your toilet in an appropriate place relative to the rest of your bathroom plumbing. Especially if you are installing your toilet along a branch drain, make sure that the sink, shower and any other plumbing fixtures are upstream of the spot where you will be installing the toilet.

You will also need to make sure that you install the toilet an appropriate distance from the wall. You need to be able to get around the toilet, and you also want to leave space so that work can be performed on the unit later. Putting your toilet too close to the wall can cause all kinds of complications in the way the unit functions and there is also a possibility of condensation build-up. For all of these reasons, it is important to make sure you are allowing an adequate amount of space on all sides.

The procedure you will have to follow when installing a toilet will be slightly different depending on whether you are installing it in a new spot or simply replacing an existing unit. When replacing an old toilet, you need to remove everything involved in the previous installation. That means taking the old bolts out of the floor and scraping away any residue to ensure that you have a clean and even surface to begin your installation on.

You should also make sure that you are aware of all applicable local codes before you begin your work. Even if you technically install your toilet correctly, you could run into trouble later on if your installation is not actually up to code. It is also important to remember to level all of your fixtures before you complete the installation process and to make sure you use a dielectric or brass fitting when attaching galvanized steel and copper to each other.  If you have any questions about this process please call Saddleback Plumbers

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Types of Humidifiers for Orange County Homes

Friday, February 10th, 2012

Even when you know you need a humidifier for your Orange County home, it’s hard to pick out just the right model. Humidifiers aren’t terribly complicated pieces of equipment, but they do have subtle differences that make one type more appropriate for your home than another. That’s why it’s a good idea to learn a bit about your humidification options before you go out and buy a humidifier. It’s also helpful to talk to an HVAC professional about your options so you know better how to select the right humidifier for your home.

One of the first decisions you’ll make when shopping for humidifiers is whether you want one that produces warm or cool mist. Both types of humidifier are appropriate under certain circumstances, so you’ll have to take the particulars of your home and situation into account when making your decision.

Warm Mist Humidifiers

Warm mist humidifiers are an excellent choice if you regularly battle dry air in the winter months. Because a warm mist humidifier needs to heat the water, it generally uses more energy than a cool mist unit.

Some warm mist and steam humidifiers can also cause burns because the water vapor is very hot when it comes out of the unit, so it’s important to keep kids and pets away from these types of units. Larger humidifiers can be installed in out of the way places such as your basement to reduce risks, but it’s still a good idea to discuss your options with a professional before installing a warm mist model.

Cool Mist Humidifiers

Cool mist humidifiers, on the other hand, use very little energy because they don’t actually heat the water they introduce to the air. There are several methods that cool mist humidifiers use to turn water into water vapor including a wick, an impeller and an ultrasonic system. If you have small children or if you need to humidify a large area in your home, a cool mist humidifier might be just what you’re looking for.

These units are usually cheaper to run than their warm mist counterparts, but they are also noisier and their air filters need to be changed regularly. That isn’t as much of a problem with a warm mist humidifier, however. Because you heat the water before it is spread throughout your home, most contaminants are removed or killed and filtration isn’t as important.

Whichever type of humidifier you choose, rest assured that your family will be more comfortable and healthier all winter.  If you need any more help with making this decision please contact Saddleback Plumbing and Heating.

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Space Heating vs. an Upgrade to Your Fountain Valley Heating System

Wednesday, December 14th, 2011

If your Fountain Valley home’s heating system isn’t really cutting it anymore, it may be time to take a step back and consider what your options are. After all, upgrading to an entirely new heating system is a big investment and a large project that will likely disrupt your life at least for a short period of time. However, under certain circumstances it’s the best alternative out there.

One option to consider when you’re unhappy with your home heating situation is supplementing your central heating system with space heaters. These are generally inexpensive and can be placed virtually anywhere in your house or taken with you from one room to another.

Especially if there is a small part of your home that your heating system just doesn’t seem to reach or that you want to keep a bit warmer than the rest of the house, space heaters can be an excellent option. They’re small, safe and portable and can easily keep a smaller portion of your home or room cozy and warm.

However, you’ll have to take into account the operating costs of a space heater as well as the initial investment when you’re trying to evaluate the overall cost effectiveness of this option. Most space heaters run on electricity, which often costs considerably more than oil or natural gas. If your home heating system runs on electricity anyway, this might not be so much of a factor. But if you have a gas furnace, you could wind up paying significantly more to run space heaters as supplemental heat over time.

Also, it’s worth considering that new home heating systems are likely much more energy efficient than the system you currently have in place. Although the initial installation cost can be pretty substantial, you’ll wind up saving a very large amount on your monthly heating bills by upgrading to a newer model.

Plus, you’ll be getting a system that should be able to satisfactorily heat your home without the need for space heaters or other supplemental heat sources. This translates into a pretty hefty savings over time and that’s something you’ll certainly have to take into consideration when you’re evaluating your options.

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How to Replace a Thermostat: A Guide from Fullerton

Wednesday, November 30th, 2011

There are a lot of common household tasks in Fullerton that do-it-yourselfers can handle beyond changing light bulbs or replacing a fuse. One of those is changing out a thermostat. The reasons for replacing a thermostat can vary from making an upgrade to changing out a thermostat that is not working right – or at all. Whatever the reason, the task is pretty simple and require s very little time and very few tools.

Let’s set the stage.

The materials you will need are the replacement thermostat, wire connectors, electrical tape (optional), needle nose pliers, and a screwdriver.

Here are the steps:

  1. Turn off electrical power to the existing thermostat. You can do this by flipping a breaker switch or removing a fuse from your home’s electrical panel. This would be a good time to make a note of the circuit’s location, writing the circuit number on the panel door or using a sticker.
  2. Remove the cover from the existing unit. You should be able to locate the screws that hold it to the wall mounting plate. Remove the screws and pull the unit away from the wall and mounting plate. Be careful not to touch the electrical wires together on the thermostat.
  3. Disconnect the wiring. Carefully remove the electrical wiring from the unit and keep the wires apart. You might want to tape the bare ends and also ensure that the wires don’t fall back through the wall. If the wires are not color coded, mark each one and which terminal they were removed from. Remove the mounting plate.
  4. If you are using a new mounting plate, make sure it fits over the existing hole and then pull the wires through the opening of the plate. Make sure the mounting plate is secured to the wall with the proper screws.
  5. Now match the wires to the terminals on the new thermostat. The wires are usually color-coded but if not, make sure you attach the right wires to the corresponding numbered terminals on the next thermostat. A green wire, which operates the furnace fan blower, is connected to the “G” terminal. The white wire operates the heater and attaches to the “W” terminal. The yellow wire operates the air conditioner and connects to the “Y” terminal. Use a wire nut to secure the wires and keep them apart from other wires. Ignore any other wires coming out of the wall as they are not necessary and may have been added by the original builder for other purposes.
  6. Carefully move the wires back into the wall as you line up the new thermostat on the mounting bracket. Install the new bracket and secure the thermostat to the bracket.
  7. Turn your power back on and check your thermostat by setting the temperature high or low, to engage the furnace or air conditioner.

This simple procedure can be done in less than 10 minutes. But if you have any doubts and want greater peace of mind, call a professional heating and cooling contractor to perform the installation.

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Steps to Take Before Turning on Your Furnace: A Guide from Aliso Viejo

Friday, November 4th, 2011

You are feeling a chill in the air in Aliso Viejo. The outside temperatures are going down each day and the nighttime temperatures are forcing you to break out the flannel pajamas, robes, and blankets. It’s getting cooler and you are holding off turning on your furnace for the first time of the season, maybe because you envision high utility bills or you are afraid of what you’ll hear, feel, or see coming from your furnace after several months of inactivity.

There’s not much you can do to control higher utility bills, they are like death and taxes. But there are some things you can do to take the “mechanical anxiety” out of turning on your furnace for the first time.

You can’t go back in time but you may want to consider “summerizing” your furnace after you shut it down in preparation for the cooling season – or during the cooling season. Have a qualified heating and cooling technician give your furnace an inspection and cleaning.

A preseason inspection and cleaning will prevent some problems that may affect some of your senses later on. For example, a smell coming from your furnace may indicate a burning or smoldering electrical component. A noise may indicate a noisy fan or a loose belt, causing poor or no airflow. Touching your ventilation system and feeling for any vibration can indicate poor airflow. Visually checking your instruments like thermostats for verifying proper temperatures or a digital readout on our carbon monoxide alarm for any traces of harmful gas are also important to furnace start-up.

If something goes wrong, don’t blame it on your thermostat or the cold weather; blame it on a lack of preventive maintenance. Your best bet is to have a qualified service technician do a clean and inspection – to minimize any surprises at start-up and to keep you and the occupants of your home comfortable and safe while your furnace begins another season of hard work.

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Key Components for Annual Maintenance of Your HVAC System

Wednesday, October 5th, 2011

Annual service checkups are an important component of your HVAC system’s ongoing operation in Fullerton. Without these checkups, the system may not run properly. While there are some tasks you can perform yourself, most of the vital maintenance tasks need to be performed by a professional annually.

As you look for a contractor to perform your annual maintenance, make sure you find someone who will perform each of the most important tasks listed below for your system each year:

  • Electrical Connections – These should be tightened, tested and replaced as necessary.
  • Thermostat – A professional thermostat calibration ensures the system runs at the right temperature throughout the summer.
  • Control Panel – The control panel is checked for error codes and recalibrated to ensure it continues running as intended for another year.
  • Blower Parts – The fan and motor are checked and serviced as needed. Replacement parts are installed.
  • Condenser Coils and Evaporator – Both are cleaned and checked for signs of wear. Any bent coils are repaired.
  • Gas Connections – An inspection of your gas lines, if applicable, is made. Additionally, if you have electrical components, they will be checked for damage.
  • Exchanger and Combustion Components – If you have a packaged system, these are checked for the entire system.
  • Refrigerant Check – If you have a refrigerant filled air conditioning system, it will be checked to ensure levels are high enough for another summer.
  • Air Filters – While you can do this yourself each month, a professional will check permanent and replaceable filters for wear and tear.
  • Moving Parts – All moving parts are inspected, oiled, and checked for damage. If a part needs replacement it is done now to avoid future problems.

Good annual maintenance is necessary to keep your system running smoothly year round. While there are plenty of cleaning tasks you can perform each month, the most important tasks are those performed by your contractor.

If you are interested in learning more about how maintenance will be performed on your system, call your local contractor today.

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Causes of Common Plumbing Disasters

Friday, September 16th, 2011

What are some of the costliest repairs in your Cowan Heights home? Costly can be characterized by lost money or lost time – or both. You may have experienced some of these so-called “disasters” and wondered what you could have done to prevent them. In particular, let’s talk about disasters of the wet variety – plumbing problems.

It goes without saying that nothing is built to last. Parts and products will eventually wear out and need to be repaired or replaced. But the rate of repair or replacement has a lot to do with how well things are maintained, especially common plumbing fixtures and appliances in the home. In order to identify some of the disasters caused by plumbing fixtures and appliances, let’s identify the source of the problems – and their location in the home.

We spend a lot of time in the bathroom so let’s start there first. What disasters happen in the bathroom? At least three come to mind: running toilet, leaking shower head, and clogged sink (also found in the kitchen so let’s kill two birds with one stone here). First, the toilet.

A running toilet is annoying and wastes several gallons of water by the hour. It is often caused by a defective flapper inside the tank, not properly sealed and causing water to leak from the tank. Next, the shower head. Leaks often occur when something as simple as a small rubber washer is worn out, breaking the seal and allowing water to leak. Lastly, the clogged sink. The most common culprit of a clogged sink is something that will not decompose or wash away, namely human hair, bits of plastic or fingernails, etc.

All of these bathroom backups can cause extensive water damage to walls or floors. In the most severe cases, a bathroom’s structure can be compromised by something as small as a dripping faucet – if left unchecked over time.

The next place we spend a lot of time is in the kitchen, another prime area for plumbing disasters. Two appliances that drive homeowners nuts (when malfunctioning) are garbage disposals and refrigerator ice makers.

First of all, garbage disposals are not made to dispose of everything. Utensils, plastics, bones and other goodies do not grind up but rather, bind up a disposal. A backed up disposal can shut down the sink drain and spill over its top. Just as annoying is a refrigerator icemaker, which depends on a plastic or copper tube for its water source. A break in the tube or crimp in the copper line can back up the water and cause a major leak behind or below the refrigerator. And like the bathrooms disasters, damaged flooring and walls can be the result.

Maybe the biggest plumbing disaster of all comes from something unseen by the naked eye: frozen water pipes in crawl spaces or attics. Water pipes in uninsulated areas can freeze when outside temperatures fall below the freezing mark. Often, homeowners are unaware of the problem because they are away from the home for extended periods of time or have failed to properly insulate pipes, crawl spaces, or attics. Frozen pipes can burst, causing extensive damage and lead to an even more dangerous situation: mold growth.

How can you avoid common disasters? Make sure your fixtures and appliances are maintained and if needed, serviced by a professional plumber. You may also want your plumber to give you a whole-house inspection, which can pinpoint potential trouble spots where your next plumbing disaster might be brewing

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How Much Water Does a Leaky Faucet Waste?

Friday, August 5th, 2011

A leaky faucet is obnoxious for more than one reason, as I discovered the other night at my house in Fullerton. It is incessant, it represents a problem that will probably only grow worse, and it can cost you money on your water bill. Beyond all of that, it wastes a lot of water, putting undue stress on the environment. But, how much water does a leaky faucet actually waste? It may not seem like much, but when added up over a period of time, that leaky faucet’s impact can be fairly substantial.

Okay, so a single drip every couple seconds may not seem like a lot of water. But, think about it this way. If you let your faucet drip every day, twenty four hours a day, it is definitely going to add up. Imagine what would happen if every faucet in your home was dripping or every faucet in your neighbourhood. It would not seem like such a small amount of water anymore.

In terms of how much water is actually wasted, it is impossible to tell for certain. After all, every drop of water from a faucet is a different size and falls at a different rate. But, for the most part the water coming from a faucet (according to the US Geological Survey) is between 1/5 and 1/3 of one milliliter. Using those calculations and 1/4 of a milliliter as an average, the USGS estimates that roughly 15,140 drips from a faucet equals one gallon of water.

It may not seem like much. After all, fifteen thousand drops is a LOT of drops. But, if your faucet dripped once every second every day, all day, it would only take four and a half hours to reach one gallon. Every day you would waste 5 gallons of water or 2,082 gallons per year. That is 10% of the average water used by a standard 3.5 gpf toilet on a daily basis. Now, imagine what happens if you have more than one drippy faucet, or if your bathtub leaks which will drip more water at a time or if the leak is larger than the average size.

In short, the cost of a leaky faucet may not seem like much, but as time passes, it can really add up and if it is not taken care of, the cost will only grow as the leak gets bigger and potentially new leaks start in other faucets of your home. Do not let it drip forever – take action now and cut down on the environmental impact you have, as well as your bill.

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How to Plunge a Clogged Drain

Friday, July 22nd, 2011

It is almost inevitable that you will have to deal with a plugged drain somewhere in your home at some point. This drain may be in the bathtub, a sink or a toilet. But wherever it is, a plunger is usually your best bet for getting it out. If you are going to be successful, though, you need to know how to set yourself up and use the plunger properly.

To begin with, remove the strainer or pop-up plug from the opening of the drain. You want the material that is clogging the drain to be able to come back up through that hole when you apply the plunger suction. Next, make sure the sink or tub has enough water in it to cover the head of the plunger completely. A toilet generally has enough water in it already. This water helps to create a better seal for the plunger and allows you to generate better suction, both of which are essential if you are going to dislodge that plug.

You should also make sure you block off any other outlet connected to the drain you are going to plunge. To do this, stuff an old rag or sponge into the overflow opening or into the second drain of a two compartment sink. That will make it possible for the entire force of your suctioning to reach the clog because it will not be compromised by air escaping through an alternate opening.

Now you are ready to plunge. Place the plunger over the opening of the clogged drain. While keeping constant contact with the sink or tub floor, move the plunger rapidly up and down between 10 and 20 times. After the last plunge, pull the plunger off of the sink or tub floor quickly. This should break the seal you have established and help to pull the clog back up the drain towards you.

It can take a few cycles like this before you are able to dislodge the clog completely. But each time you plunge, you are doing more to break up the clog. The pressure from the plunger can eventually get rid of many difficult clogs, so do not be discouraged if it takes a few tries.

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